Up & Away – The CILO Trail Logbook #08
From Arosa to the Rothorn and Back Again
45 kilometers, 2,200 meters of descending, one single day. The Bike Kingdom connects Arosa, Lenzerheide, and Chur with 12 mountain lifts and more than 900 kilometers of trails. The CILO crew experiences a rare weather phenomenon: a dense sea of clouds below, brilliant blue skies above. From Arosa, we climb along high-alpine uphill trails to the Rothorn, ride through the lunar landscape of “Dark Side of the Moon,” and return to Arosa via the legendary Älplisee Trail.
Above the Clouds
Arosa, 5:45 a.m. Sophie wakes us up. Through the intercom, she calls upstairs: “Inversion weather conditions, guys. We need to hurry!”
She lives here in Arosa, works for the local tourism board, and knows the region like the back of her hand. Early this morning, she checked the weather forecast and realized today would be special.
Suddenly, everyone is buzzing around the apartment like ants: Liesl, Lilly, Pirmin, Bengt, Jens, Markus, and me. We definitely don’t have enough bathrooms. Doesn’t matter. Back into yesterday’s smelly pads and straight down to the bike cellar.
Thirty minutes later, we’re standing in front of the apartment building, ready to ride. The air is cold and crisp. The village is still wrapped in darkness, but in the distance we can already sense the first light of sunrise.
Sophie leads us along Obersee, up through a residential area, and out of town. We turn onto the uphill trail and begin pedaling toward the Weisshorn.
After just under 20 minutes, an incredible view opens up before us. We’re looking down into the Rhine Valley. At least theoretically. The valley floor itself is invisible, covered by a thick layer of clouds stretching endlessly like a white ocean.
Inversion weather. Cold air trapped below, warm air sitting above it like a lid. Sunshine on top, clouds below. And us right in the middle, exactly on the edge. “Wow,” murmurs Bengt.
Bathed in the rising sun, we pedal higher into the mountains. The e-MTBs are doing exactly what they were built for: bringing us here without draining all our energy.
The Bike Kingdom
Arosa and Lenzerheide are separated by massive mountain ranges, yet both belong to the Bike Kingdom — the largest connected bike area in Switzerland. Twelve mountain lifts connect three riding regions.
What makes Graubünden unique: every hiking trail is also open to mountain bikes. Unless explicitly forbidden, it’s allowed. Trail tolerance as a lived reality.
We head toward the summit station of the Hörnli Express. The climb is perfect for e-MTBs: steep enough to challenge the motors, but never so rough that you need to push. The upright riding position of the CILO bikes keeps traction perfectly balanced on loose rock.
At the top of the Hörnli ridge, a stunning panorama unfolds: Piz Kesch, Piz Palü, Piz Mitgel, and Tödi. At 2,500 meters above sea level, the mountains of Graubünden reveal themselves in full 360-degree glory.
The Urdental Valley
From the Hörnlihütte, the Urdental Trail leads toward Lenzerheide. What begins as a scenic trail quickly becomes more demanding. We cross alpine scree fields that feel almost lunar.
The Bike Kingdom is more than just a bike park: it’s a network of trails shaped by the natural topography. From machine-built flow lines to rugged mountain paths that have existed for centuries. Trail recycling in its purest form.
The climb to the Urdenfürggli Pass at 2,546 meters pushes us hard. Steep ramps. Loose rocks. If we fail a key section without dabbing a foot, we ride it again.
Lenzerheide Bikepark
From the saddle, we drop into the Urdenfürggli Twister: technical, but never overwhelming. Root sections alternate with flowing stretches. Before descending further into the valley, we tackle one more steep climb toward the Great White.
The Great White is a raw, rugged trail with demanding rock sections. Honest mountain biking at its finest. The trail demands full concentration — not easy with such breathtaking scenery all around.
Then comes the Motta Express: faster, more direct, packed with natural jumps. The Bike Attack Traverse connects the park sections. Berm after berm carries us toward the valley floor. Below us, the sea of clouds slowly begins to dissolve.
Down in the valley, Lake Heidsee emerges through the mist. That’s where we’re headed. We take the FLOWline: blue-rated, smooth corners, relaxed riding all the way to the lift station.
Lunch Break
At the base station, we stop for lunch. Jens orders a bratwurst, Lilly goes for a salad, and I choose a traditional Graubünden burger. The bikes lean against the wall while the sun warms our faces.
“The Bike Kingdom is perfectly connected,” says Sophie. “Twelve lifts, and every one of them transports bikes. You could spend an extended weekend here without riding the same trail twice.”
“Now comes the highlight,” she says. “The Rothorn.”
The Parpaner Rothorn
Rothorn 1 gondola to the mid-station, then Rothorn 2 all the way to the summit at 2,837 meters.
At the top, we step into another world: surreal lunar terrain, loose rock, giant boulders, endless sky. Hardly any vegetation. “Up here,” says Sophie, “the Dark Side of the Moon Trail begins.”
The trail was built in 2024 by the Hello Allegra team using a 1.8-ton excavator. A route perfectly integrated into the landscape. No blasting, no imported soil. Everything shaped from local material, with alpine vegetation carefully preserved and relocated.
Dark Side of the Moon
From the very first meter, the name says it all. A surreal landscape of loose rock, massive boulders, and endless views. Lunar rather than alpine. Rocky flow over polished slabs, through perfectly placed corners, over playful jumps. Sculpted berms blend seamlessly into the terrain. Everything follows the logic of the mountain.
The trail is rated red, with nasty technical sections and optional lines. But the focus is always flow — those moments where you let go of the brakes.
The Kyano HC surfs effortlessly across the rocks. The compact rear end responds instantly, while the 160 mm suspension absorbs impacts without hesitation. After three kilometers, the trail spits us out at Gredigs Fürggli. From there, we take the Älplisee Trail.
The Crown Jewel
The Älplisee Trail is considered the crown jewel of the Bike Kingdom. A high-alpine singletrack: technical, demanding, unforgettable.
The trail flows through the Schafälpli Valley, across soft alpine meadows, past grazing sheep. The sun hangs low in the sky, casting everything in golden light.
Then comes Lake Älplisee: crystal clear, surrounded by rugged cliffs. One of the most beautiful mountain lakes in Switzerland. We stop for a moment. The silence up here is absolute.
After the lake, things get serious. Narrow, steep rock sections with tight switchbacks. Massive rocks form staircase-like drops, and the corners are so tight that precise front-wheel placement becomes essential. The low top tube of the CILO bikes provides extra freedom of movement and confidence.
Lilly rides ahead — clean, playful, controlled. Liesl follows, fully focused, trying direct lines over rocky ledges. Pirmin chooses an even more aggressive line: more direct, more risk.
The final section was rebuilt in 2024 and now runs completely separate from the hiking trail. The terrain becomes flowier and merges into the Hörnli Trail.
The Hörnli Trail
We let go of the brakes and surf. Corner after corner. Berm after berm. The Tanay HC and the Kyano HC: two bikes, one DNA. Swiss precision reduced to what truly matters.
At the bottom, the trail delivers us back to Obersee. We roll toward the apartment, the bikes filthy, our faces smiling. Sophie rides in the middle of the group. “So,” she asks, “was getting up early worth it?” Pirmin nods. “Definitely.”
“Above the clouds,” I say. “We were above the clouds.”
The Facts
- Route: Arosa – Weisshorn Uphill – Hörnli – Urdental Trail – Urdenfürggli – Great White – Bike Kingdom Park Lenzerheide – Rothorn – Dark Side of the Moon – Älplisee Trail – Arosa
- Distance: approx. 45 km
- Elevation: 1,400 m climbing, 2,200 m descending
- Difficulty: S2–S3 (technically demanding, moderate physical effort thanks to lift support)
- Bikes: CILO Tanay HC (All Mountain, 140 mm, Shimano EP801), CILO Kyano HC (Enduro, 160 mm, Shimano EP801)
- Mountain lifts: Weisshorn Speed Lift, Hörnli Express, Urdenbahn, Rothorn 1, Rothorn 2
- Food stops: Hörnlihütte (open from July), Bike Kingdom Park base station, Panoramic Restaurant Rothorn Summit
- Special highlight: Autumn inversion weather conditions, “Dark Side of the Moon” trail at 2,837 m, trail tolerance culture in Graubünden
- Best setup: An extended weekend with the Bike Kingdom lift pass for unlimited access to all lifts. Ideal for maximum trail variety and high-alpine riding experiences