Like a phoenix rising from the ashes – the birth of a SUPERTRAIL in Valais

120 hectares of forest went up in flames – an area as large as Lucerne’s old town. What remained was a swath of devastation – and the beginning of a new story.

Fourteen years later, we’re standing in that very firebreak. The charred remains of trees still mark the ground, but the black of ash has given way to the green of new life. Young trees and shrubs are sprouting everywhere. What we’re seeing is living proof that nature always finds a way. And it’s not just nature.

Because right here, something new took shape: The Phoenix Trail – a mountain bike trail, born from fire, just like its mythical namesake. Built by trail builders who truly understand the mountain. With sensitivity and care, they carved the trail into slopes as steep as 40 degrees.

One of them is Leo – trail builder, architectural drafter, and today, my guide.

Where History Is Being Rewritten: In Valais‍

We’re standing in the Eyholz Forest above Visp, gazing down into the valley and the 8,000-inhabitant town nestled in the German-speaking part of Valais. At my side are Flurina and Leo. They know the Upper Valais like the back of their hands and are guiding me to some of the region’s finest trail gems.

The two Swiss riders live in the Bernese Oberland—about 65 kilometers away as the crow flies. But between the Bernese Oberland and Valais rise towering alpine giants, including some of the most famous: the Eiger, Mönch, Jungfrau, and Finsteraarhorn. Thankfully, the car shuttle through the Lötschberg Tunnel from Kandersteg to Goppenstein makes getting to Valais a breeze.

Into a Storybook World on the Postbus

Our tour starts in the center of Visp. We hop on the legendary Postauto—the Swiss answer to shuttle services, complete with bike racks. As we climb 711 meters in elevation, I strike up a conversation with a local. Relaxed, friendly—typical Valais. Maybe it’s the 300 days of sunshine a year. Vitamin D, it seems, does wonders for the mood.

Visperterminen – Where Time Wears Wood

High above in Visperterminen, we’re welcomed by a village straight out of a storybook. Timber houses weathered by the sun, steep alleys, and alpine humility. Tradition meets modern life. I feel a tug in my chest—narrowness and vastness, hardship and fulfillment. This place has presence.

From here, it’s all up to muscle power - boosted by e-assist. The trail is calling. And what a trail it is. Even the climb is a treat, as we wind our way up a root-laced path. This is uphill riding at its best.

Climbing with a View – and a Hint of South Tyrol

The route takes us along old cart tracks and forest paths. The ground: bone-dry, grainy, and springy under the tires. It feels like a greeting from South Tyrol. Memories of the Vinschgau valley come flooding back—and the grin on my face gets wider.

Up top, there’s still snow. So we traverse just below the summit. Sunlight sparkles through the open forest, and our tires send clouds of dust soaring into the treetops. Flow? Definitely—but for now, it’s just the warm-up.

One Valley, 41 Four-Thousanders – and a Story to Tell

From a mountain ridge, the full majesty of Valais unfolds before us. A world of peaks—41 of them towering above 4,000 meters. This isn’t just a backdrop; it’s a monument. The scale of this region is unmatched. To put it into perspective: Visp lies at 658 meters above sea level. The highest peak in Valais, the Dufourspitze, rises to a staggering 4,634 meters. That’s nearly 4,000 meters of vertical difference. Valais is raw vertical power. And it’s right here—carved into this terrain—that our trail winds its way forward.

Phoenix Trail – No Polished Flow

A wooden arch marks the entrance. The Phoenix Trail begins. Leo grins. “Not a flow trail,” he says. And by that, he means: no boring rollercoaster ride. This trail has character—with edges and attitude. Built berms, traverses, compressions, and high-speed sections. No cookie-cutter design here. This is a trail with a signature.

The Phoenix Leads the Way

The last rays of sunlight graze the ridgelines as we roll back into Visp. Dust still clings to our legs, and the grin is etched permanently on our faces. What remains? Not just the memory of a descent packed with adrenaline and views—but the sense that something more happened here than just riding a trail.

The Phoenix Trail isn’t a textbook product. It’s a statement. A mindset. One of bold vision, deep respect for nature, and pure love for mountain biking. It shows what’s possible when destruction isn’t seen as an end—but as the beginning of something new.

For me, it was more than just a tour. It was an immersion into a landscape shaped by contrasts: fire and life. Wildness and craftsmanship. Mountain and valley. And in the middle of it all – a trail that weaves these opposites together. With line. With soul. With meaning.

Anyone seeking the essence of Valais will find one of its most powerful moments here.
Anyone who lives and breathes mountain biking will never forget the Phoenix Trail.